Friday, February 18, 2011
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte have inspired me season after season since 2005! When they started, they had no technical skills and a background in fine arts from U.C. Berkeley. Their first collection consisted of ten pieces! They have now won countless prestigious awards not only for design, but for their textiles as well! Earlier collections from Rodarte felt more like art to wear than mainstream ready to wear. In my opinion, they have truly hit their stride and found balance within the commercial realm of fashion without selling out! This particular collection was inspired by the American plains... think "Wizard of Oz", the color of wheat... Oddly enough, the songs selected for the show, are songs in my regular rotation! I am truly INSPIRED! Giddy like a small child and if I had the money... I would buy it all!
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) was a French designer dubbed the "Queen of the bias cut" and "the architect among dressmakers". She was best known for introducing the world to the bias-cut. Influenced by modern dance, her clothes accentuated the natural female form. Madame Vionnet used to cut, drape and pin her elegant designs to miniature dolls before cutting the finished product. She used materials such as crêpe de chine, gabardine, and satin to make her clothes; fabrics that were unusual in women's fashion of the 1920s and 30s. Today, Madeleine Vionnet is considered one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century. Both her bias cut and her urbanely sensual approach to couture remain a strong and pervasive influence on contemporary fashion as evidenced by the collections of such past and present-day designers as Ossie Clark, Halston, John Galliano, Comme des Garçons, Azzedine Alaia, Issey Miyake and Marchesa.
In 2009, the helm of Vionnet was taken over by Rodolfo Paglialunga, who spent 13 years designing womenswear for Prada, my favorite design house of all! His goal is to maintain the body conscious designs Vionnet is known for, while maintaining a fresh, modern edge. The shoes are designed by one of my other fave's, Giuseppe Zanotti.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
In 1945, French couturier Madame Carmen de Tommaso established the House of Carven on the Champs-Élysées. She was a novice in comparison to the designers in the world of '40's haute couture. She brought a freshness that reflected the daily lives of real women and was the first to offer accessible luxury.
Enter Guillaume Henry, the former assistant to Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy. His fresh take on modern style is breathing new life into the otherwise withering house. He loves the way New York girls mix it up with a sense of obliviousness which, I think, is true! For Guillaume, French inspiration still comes from classic film stars such as; Catherine Deneuve and Jeanne Moreau.
Saturday, February 5, 2011
Raymond "Ossie" Clark was an English fashion designer who hit his peak between 1965-1974. He and his textile designing wife, Celia Birtwell, designed clothing for the rich and famous. He dubbed himself a "master cutter" while the fashion press called him "The King of King's Road". Clark's love of dance inspired his clothes to be free moving. He was well known for his use of muted colors and moss crepe fabric. Early in his career, Ossie studied architecture which he deemed "invaluable" in teaching him proportion. Eventually, he attended the Royal College of Art where his first fashion show was a huge success. Unfortunately, he was not a good business manager and the excesses of the times took a toll on his marriage and ultimately, his life. At the age of 54, he was stabbed to death by a much younger gay lover. Today, his designs are worn by the likes of Kate Moss, Cate Blanchett, Nicole Ritchie and Emma Watson.